Quick towing question

[Nicki aka Rebelstand 272]

That's what these are for.

not all states have those....

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

I'm a towing wuss, so me personally, I would get something lighter so that the MAX capacity on the trailer is 4K and also get a weight distributing hitch.

You "could" get away with it, if you really keep the trailer light.

But that is tough.

Unfortunately, the 4.8 in a 1/2 ton, plus you add the 4x4 really kills what you can tow.

If you had a 5.4 in there, you would be golden.

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

As far as stopping, when we pulled a TT with our Titan, we added some kind of brake.

Yeah, you will definitely need an electric brake controller for anything over 2,000 lbs.

[AC in A2......Aaron 693]

I'm a towing wuss, so me personally, I would get something lighter so that the MAX capacity on the trailer is 4K and also get a weight distributing hitch.

You "could" get away with it, if you really keep the trailer light.

But that is tough.

Unfortunately, the 4.8 in a 1/2 ton, plus you add the 4x4 really kills what you can tow.

If you had a 5.4 in there, you would be golden.

Yeah. I really had to have the 4x4 because of driving so much in the northern Lower Peninsula in November thru Spring. Just way too much snow to not have it.

I have seen a few hybrids with the dry weight at approx. 3000....some even slightly less.

[CakeHenn 4]

Need the break controller installed in the truck...they are not too expensive and any RV shop can rig it up for you. I'd also get a weight distribution hitch and sway bar. I think you'll be ok for short trips in flat areas. You MPG is going to be terrible when towing...I'd guess between 7 and 9 MPG. When you get to the point where you are ready for a new tow vehicle you can then step up to something with more power and tow/haul capacities

[AC in A2......Aaron 693]

Need the break controller installed in the truck...they are not too expensive and any RV shop can rig it up for you. I'd also get a weight distribution hitch and sway bar. I think you'll be ok for short trips in flat areas. You MPG is going to be terrible when towing...I'd guess between 7 and 9 MPG. When you get to the point where you are ready for a new tow vehicle you can then step up to something with more power and tow/haul capacities

How much weight do you think I can reasonably haul?

What youre describing above seems like more trouble than its worth given the fact that we would not always be making short trips........and an upgraded tow vehicle will not be an option anytime soon. Thanks!

[AC in A2......Aaron 693]

Break controller is not an issue but having no power to go up and down hills is.

[CakeHenn 4]

The break controller and weight distributing hitch (WDH) can all be added by a RV place. And really it's not more trouble than it's worth...it's all pretty standard for anyone that tows. None of this stuff is all that complex or super expensive. You might be able to go without a WDH but the break controller is necessarily and very important. All trailers should have breaks already hooked up on them so really it's just a matter of having that controller to tell your trailer when you are breaking. I'd say even for a pop up trailer you would need a break controller.

Overall RVing is not a cheap hobby. You can get an older used RV for a really good price but just keep in mind you still need to make a minimal investment in your tow vehicle to make sure you are going to safely tow.

All this stuff was very intimidating to me. I'd suggest just going to a RV dealership and walking around and just looking. Then get a sales person to tell you about the break controllers, WDH, etc..have him show you as well.

I was intimidated as well before I got started RVing...took me two years of shopping before I pulled the trigger. Now that I've been doing it for a long time I can honestly say it's not rocket science and the wonderful thing is other RVers are super helpful. I know for a fact if something happened to me and my wife was stuck at a camp ground she would have no trouble having someone give her a hand with whatever on the RV she does not know how to work...which at this point is very little.

You might want to even consider borrowing or renting an RV...maybe rent a Pop up.

[dblr....Rennie 224]

I think I really need a RV buying for dummies book.

We will take care of that ay Gettysburg!!!!!!!

[Katman1356...Jason 1,140]

We will take care of that ay Gettysburg!!!!!!!

I think we will be having a workshop on this at Gettyburg. LOL

[dblr....Rennie 224]

I think we will be having a workshop on this at Gettyburg. LOL

I will have the new tow guide with us and there is a camper lot near Pam's favorite pie buffet

[AC in A2......Aaron 693]

We will take care of that ay Gettysburg!!!!!!!

I think we will be having a workshop on this at Gettyburg. LOL

I will have the new tow guide with us and there is a camper lot near Pam's favorite pie buffet

LOL. This sounds like an excellent plan to me. No seriously.

[AC in A2......Aaron 693]

The break controller and weight distributing hitch (WDH) can all be added by a RV place. And really it's not more trouble than it's worth...it's all pretty standard for anyone that tows. None of this stuff is all that complex or super expensive. You might be able to go without a WDH but the break controller is necessarily and very important. All trailers should have breaks already hooked up on them so really it's just a matter of having that controller to tell your trailer when you are breaking. I'd say even for a pop up trailer you would need a break controller.

Overall RVing is not a cheap hobby. You can get an older used RV for a really good price but just keep in mind you still need to make a minimal investment in your tow vehicle to make sure you are going to safely tow.

All this stuff was very intimidating to me. I'd suggest just going to a RV dealership and walking around and just looking. Then get a sales person to tell you about the break controllers, WDH, etc..have him show you as well.

I was intimidated as well before I got started RVing...took me two years of shopping before I pulled the trigger. Now that I've been doing it for a long time I can honestly say it's not rocket science and the wonderful thing is other RVers are super helpful. I know for a fact if something happened to me and my wife was stuck at a camp ground she would have no trouble having someone give her a hand with whatever on the RV she does not know how to work...which at this point is very little.

You might want to even consider borrowing or renting an RV...maybe rent a Pop up.

Thanks for taking the time to explain these things. We really do want to get a RV......but a new tow vehicle is not an option. The add-ons you are speaking of would not be what makes it or breaks it for us. We just need a TT we can tow safely on all types of trips....short, intermediate, long, flat roads, through mountains, etc.

I guess somehow I need to figure out what I can safely tow so I know what I can buy. I have towed my parents PUP with my old truck (2003 Chevy half-ton 4x4) and it seemed okay. Granted that was on flat roads and a very short trip (30 miles). If I was going through mountains or anything like that, I would have wanted the brake controller even on that.

We really don't want to buy a PUP though. DW likes the hybrids as sort of a step up from a PUP. Now it is up to yours truly to figure out whether or not we can tow one safely with my truck.

I will continue to soak up any input that you and any other fiends post here! Thanks everyone!!!

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

To get lighter for the size you want, you may have to go newer. The older RVs were heavier. Built with wood, and steel. The newer ones have more composites, aluminum, etc, so will be lighter with the same "size" as an older one.

[Grumpy and Grandma 740]

Aaron, . If you need the weights on the Hybrid you are looking at contact Starcraft I'm sure they can provide them.

http://www.starcraft.../contact.us.php

[wak648...Bill 94]

When we got back into camping a few years ago we were pulling a Jayco Kiwi 17C (weight around 5000lbs loaded) with a Dodge Durango with a 4.7 engine. We added an auxiliary engine cooler to help push the upper limits of the towing capacity (around 6500lbs). We had no problems other than poor gas mileage towing through the mountains of PA, West Virginia, and NC on the way to Disney in August. The limits they show in the guides are there for a reason, but they are mostly there to cover manufactures rear ends to prevent some morons from trying to tow monster trailers that are overloaded.

I agree with Carol to look at the newer campers, as they are made with lighter materials. May cost more in the start but they will be cheaper in the long run.

[Family of Bears 98]

Sway bar= a must. Didn't have it bringing our pop home and it was not fun. It was like $50 and Rick installed himself. Easy.

Electric brake= also a must. We had Uhaul install it. Like 110-150$. Took 2 hours. Also easy.

Transmission cooler=also a must. 150ish I think. Got it done at dealership. They said it would not void our lifetime power train warranty. Also super easy.

Pup/hybrid=been there. I totally get the draw towards upgrading, however just gas mileage alone is a huge difference. With a pup, all of these things we are talking about are a little easier in my opinion. Not to mention less to maintain, etc. however, the tips I mentioned above will help you with whatever you choose.

Let us know if you have any more questions. I've been through all this and I felt like people were talking a completely different language.

[nvychf 1]

Hello All, I am going to jump in on this convo if it is ok. I have a few questions of my own. I have a 2009 Chevy Sis - burban. It contains a 5.3 with a 3.08 rear gear. It has a CGVWR of 11000 lbs, and GVWR of 7200 lbs. I am now a math professor, by my calc that is a 3800 lbs trailer With stuff inside at the maximum rating. Minniemom and I want to go with a Hybrid (Rockwood Roo 233S.) If I change the rear gearing to a 3.42, with the same engine I go up 500 lbs. The Sis - burban has a tow mode and a trans cooler in place already. What can I do to get 2000 lbs more towing capacity out of the Sis - burban. BTW my old mini van had the same tow rating...NS!!!

[ftwildernessguy 778]

Hello All, I am going to jump in on this convo if it is ok. I have a few questions of my own. I have a 2009 Chevy Sis - burban. It contains a 5.3 with a 3.08 rear gear. It has a CGVWR of 11000 lbs, and GVWR of 7200 lbs. I am now a math professor, by my calc that is a 3800 lbs trailer With stuff inside at the maximum rating. Minniemom and I want to go with a Hybrid (Rockwood Roo 233S.) If I change the rear gearing to a 3.42, with the same engine I go up 500 lbs. The Sis - burban has a tow mode and a trans cooler in place already. What can I do to get 2000 lbs more towing capacity out of the Sis - burban. BTW my old mini van had the same tow rating...NS!!!

Trade it in for a pickup.

[stacktester 78]

There's also quite a few campers that are single axle that have the pop out bunks. I know Jayco has the Swift line. Light and reasonably priced. I haven't owned a half ton since 88. I always bought a 3/4 ton because you never know what you're gonna have to haul. I like to go with at least 1k pounds to the free side so I know I'm good.

[ImDownWithDisney 342]

GVWR=7000

GAWR=3950 (each front and rear) Load the truck up like you would for a trip and weigh it at a CAT scale. See how much reserve you have on the axles. This is how much you can haul

Max trailer weight=5500 This is probably a conservative # but I would not go over it by much with that 4.8

GCWR=11000 The scaled weight of the truck subtracted from 11000 will tell you how much you can pull....NOT haul. Hauling means weight ON vehicle

Max Tongue weight with weight carrying hitch=600 If these tongue #'s came from the sticker on the hitch they are worthless stick with the calculated weights from above

Max tongue weight with weight distributing hitch=1100

The window sticker says it has an HD trailering package with locking rear differential and handling/trailering suspension,

Stabilitrak-stability control with trailer sway control and hill start assist

I dont see anythig that specifically says transmission cooler but ot says when you switch to tow/haul mode on the steering column it helps cool the transmission. Is that what youre talking about? Find out for sure if you have a trans cooler. You will definitely need it....I would personally want a trans temp guage too

Definitely don't go over your RAWR, GCWR or tire weight ratings (on sidewall).

If this was my truck I would scale it with and without the camper, if possible.

Lose the P rated tires, if it has them, and go with a good LT load range E.

Put a Prodigy P2 brake controller in it.

Add a trans temp guage. factory needle guages, if equipped, are worthless.

Get a good weight distribution hitch and sway bar system and set it up correctly

Most importantly...take it easy and don't try to run 70 everywhere.

[stacktester 78]

One thing to add. If you buy from a dealer and the sway bar/ stabalizer bars aren't included don't buy them from there. There's tons on Craigslist at half the price.

[BradyBzLyn...Mo 2,023]

Just seeing this and translating for DH, as this is very definitely not my department.

We towed a 2006 22' Kodiak hybrid (no slide outs) with a V8 Ford Explorer with a tow package and 2 transmission coolers. UVW was 2900, GVW was 4200. I'm the one that did most of the driving and it was a bit of a dog going up big hills, but towed just fine otherwise and made 5 trips to WDW from NH (approx. 3000 miles round trip).

He said the weight should be ok IF you don't overload the trailer, but the gear ratio will dictate how WELL it will tow. He says 3:55 or higher is best. He would also add a transmission cooler if you don't already have one.

[ftwildernessguy 778]

I'd also get a weight distribution hitch and sway bar.

You might be able to go without a WDH

So, which is it?

Unless you are pulling a small utility trailer with a lawn mower on it or a really small pop up, I would not go without a weight distribution hitch.

[ftwildernessguy 778]

I'd suggest just going to a RV dealership and walking around and just looking. Then get a sales person to tell you about the break controllers, WDH, etc..have him show you as well.

Sales people at an RV store are frequently not experts on WDH, brake controllers, or anything else related to towing. If you need to talk to someone about this, you may spend more time tracking down one of the service technicians. At the very least, ask whomever you are talking to whether or not they even own a trailer. Many do not, and the sales people may have been selling cars or furniture prior to getting their job at the dealership.