rtguy007 74 Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Question for all of you fiends out there. Are you using a WDH on your 3/4 ton trucks? I have read that you don't need one some places and others saying you do. I have a 35' Rockwood 8312ss that weights 7400lbs dry with ~950lbs tongue weight prior to propane, batteries, and storage load. I have an equalizer hitch and had to order a new shank for it because the 2500 is about 6 inches taller in the rear vs the 1500. Was curious what other fiends were using on their rigs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Humphrey Bear…Rob 42 Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 I always used a WDH - I've seen some without, but can't imagine how it might wag as a big truck goes by. FWIW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LONE-STAR 370 Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 I use it on my one ton. But my tongue weight is around 1400lbs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rtguy007 74 Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 So for grins, I hooked up the camper to the 2500 and measured the squat without the WDH. The truck dropped 1 1/4". Doesn't seem like a lot. Still waiting for the longer shank for my equalizer. Will probably still put it on just for sway control. Doubt the WD will do much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CCIntrigue...aka Gwen 547 Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 We used a WDH on both our 3/4 ton and one ton trucks. That was with a 6800 pound dry weight Airstream with an approx 700 pound tongue weight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TN22.....Brady 22 Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 We use WDH on our 1 ton for mainly sway control. When We changed hitches a friend reccommended the solid lift bars (no chains), and it really helps with sway, but only makes about a 1.5 to 2 inch difference in rear sag. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rtguy007 74 Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 We use WDH on our 1 ton for mainly sway control. When We changed hitches a friend reccommended the solid lift bars (no chains), and it really helps with sway, but only makes about a 1.5 to 2 inch difference in rear sag. We have the equal-i-zer hitch and know what you mean about the sway control of bars vs chains. Had a friend tell me when we bought our first TT to stay away from chains and I am glad I did. I hope I can get 1.5 out of the rear. That would put it back to stock height. I hope it works out that way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Helmsey......Todd 134 Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 The thing that will dictate the "need" for the WDH is the hitch rating itself. There should be a sticker on the hitch that tells you load capacities with and without weight distribution. If you know what your tongue weight actually is and fall below the weight dictated by the receiver then you don't "need" one. FWIW I used a WDH with my 3/4 ton pulling a trailer that grossed 6000lbs. It had sway control built in so I used it for that reason alone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rtguy007 74 Posted June 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 The thing that will dictate the "need" for the WDH is the hitch rating itself. There should be a sticker on the hitch that tells you load capacities with and without weight distribution. If you know what your tongue weight actually is and fall below the weight dictated by the receiver then you don't "need" one. FWIW I used a WDH with my 3/4 ton pulling a trailer that grossed 6000lbs. It had sway control built in so I used it for that reason alone. Here is the issue with that, RAM is horrible for not placing the sticker on the hitch. Only sticker or stamp on the hitch is the part number. The RAM towing guide for my truck states that the recommended tongue weight is 10% of the trailer (which will never happen). It also says the max weight is 1800lbs for the class v hitch that I have on the truck from the factory. It doesn't mention anywhere in the towing guide a need for weight distribution. It has me scratching my head. Now on the other side, the trucks rear dropped 1 1/4" on just the ball. Front came up about an inch. Seems minimal on both sides. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LONE-STAR 370 Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 I think when a 18 wheeler passes you you will wish you had it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rtguy007 74 Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 I agree. I still plan on using it. Just trying to figure out why I am seeing some people say you need it and others say you dont. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keith_h 420 Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 The more important measurement is the front end lift when you have the trailer attached. Too much lift and you lose steering control. I am not familiar enough with your truck to say if an inch makes much difference. You are going to need some type of sway control regardless. Personally I prefer the sway control received from a WDH over friction sway bars.The WDH costs more but the ones I've seen just seem more solid and is always there if the weight changes such that I need to redistribute weight. As far as measurements go on my Explorer with the WDH I get to 3/8" of stock on the front and 7/8" on the rear. With out WDH engaged I'm at 1-1/8" high in the front and 1-1/2" low in the back. When setting up the hitch I found the changes to the rear end height were much smaller than the front. Based on conversations I've had with Equal-i-zer the rear end lift will be less that the front. They also said what they really look for is the front end lowering and aren't really concerned with rear end lift. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
djsamuel 322 Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Here is the issue with that, RAM is horrible for not placing the sticker on the hitch. Only sticker or stamp on the hitch is the part number.The RAM towing guide for my truck states that the recommended tongue weight is 10% of the trailer (which will never happen). It also says the max weight is 1800lbs for the class v hitch that I have on the truck from the factory. It doesn't mention anywhere in the towing guide a need for weight distribution. It has me scratching my head.Now on the other side, the trucks rear dropped 1 1/4" on just the ball. Front came up about an inch. Seems minimal on both sides. The 1800 pound tongue weight is with or without a WDH hitch. This is explained here ( http://www.etrailer.com/question-53885.html ) which says in part: This is because unlike lower capacity hitches, say a Class III, this Class V hitch is already rated at or near the vehicle structural limits. Strictly speaking, adding a weight distribution setup would give this hitch receiver higher capacity, but it would serve no purpose.Unless you do quite a bit of long-distance highway driving with the trailer (where the anti-sway capabilities of a weight distribution system would be useful), or unless you find your truck sags in the back when hitched to your trailer, you will be better served by upgrading to the Class V receiver. Weight distribution systems must be carefully selected based on trailer tongue weight. Since you plan to move to a heavier trailer, the higher-rated hitch is the way to go. So according to this, since you will be towing long distances, proceed as planned and use the WDH for sway control. It is not needed for weight distribution, but your towing experience will be better with the WDH. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stockboys10 2 Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 We have a ram 2500 diesel 4x4, I will tow the trailer (8k?) home from the storage lot to the house without the WD bars hooked up and it works but is bouncy. When I use the bars the ride smooths out. I dont really notice much drop without the bars, maybe 1.5" and with the bars hardly any at all. Both work but the bars give me a better ride. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rtguy007 74 Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I got the new 14k equalizer in and installed it. Took some doing to find someone who could torque the ball close to me but I found someone. The difference between the 10k and 14k was night and day. The 14k was not as loud and actually to slightly nose down which I couldn't get the 10k to do. Measurements put the front back to stock height and rear down 3/4 of an Ilinch of I remember correctly. I didn't get to drive to much with it but got it up to freeway speeds and couldn't tell it was back there. No semi pull like the 10k had. I am please with the setup vs how it was on the 1500 with the 10k. Really jobs in for that trip to the smokies here in a few weeks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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