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The trailer we purchased has breaks... which means I think we need to have a brake controller installed, once we do actually find a tow vehicle (had NO idea how tough finding a tow vehicle would be...yuck!!).  

 

My question is... the trailer:  right now it is stored at a storage facility (it will be stored in our driveway, once we find a vehicle to tow it).  So, when we do find the vehicle, do we take it to an RV place to have the brake controller installed BEFORE we try and tow our camper home? For some reason, I thought the man we purchased it from, said something to the effect of taking the trailer to the RV store to have the controller installed.... do they need the camper to do this?  And, if so, I trust it's okay to tow the trailer without having use of the trailer breaks?  The RV store is not super far away (we live in Atlanta so it's not close...but not an hour drive).  I think we could use mostly back roads to get there, if that would be safer than the interstate.  Of course, with back roads, I think we would stop more...so maybe the interstate (driving very slow) would be best?

 

Ahh...all these questions.  So glad to have my fiends :)

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No take your tow vehicle to have the brake controller installed , I like the Prodigy unit, most of the newer  tow vehicles are set up to just plug in the brake controller the most they would have to do is mount it. I would not really suggest towing the camper without as I am sure it will push you when stopping plus( don't take this the wrong way) not having much experience towing I would not want to chance that. It might take a few adjustments to set the controller to the camper.

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+1 to what Rennie said. 

I had the same brake controller in 3 different vehicles now. I just have to purchase the $20(ish) cable (vehicle specific) for whatever vehicle it's in to connect to my brake controller. I have been using the Prodigy P3 controller and absolutely love it, the only reason it's not mounted in the new truck is because it has an integrated controller. I do however have the cable so I could hook it up in an emergency. If you end up with a Tekonsha brand brake controller you can see if they have a vehicle specific able available for whatever tow vehicle you get here: Clicky If you do go that route, you can install it yourself in just a few minutes.

Once you decide on a tow vehicle you can also likely search youtube and find a video of someone installing a brake controller in one and you will be able to see exactly what you are up against.

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No take your tow vehicle to have the brake controller installed , I like the Prodigy unit, most of the newer  tow vehicles are set up to just plug in the brake controller the most they would have to do is mount it. I would not really suggest towing the camper without as I am sure it will push you when stopping plus( don't take this the wrong way) not having much experience towing I would not want to chance that. It might take a few adjustments to set the controller to the camper.

 

 

Is it fair to say, that the RV shop should show us how to use the controller?    You mentioned a "few adjustments"... should the RV shop explain to us how to do that?  And I didn't take your comments the wrong way because, seriously, we. know. nothing.    :D

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Is it fair to say, that the RV shop should show us how to use the controller?    You mentioned a "few adjustments"... should the RV shop explain to us how to do that?  And I didn't take your comments the wrong way because, seriously, we. know. nothing.    :D

 

A good rv shop should help you but you can not always count on it. The adjustment I was talking about is how it will feel when you are stopping, you want the trailer brakes to help you stop you don't really want the trailer brakes to look up and skid. In time you feel the difference. Glad we can help you out with your questions so ask away.

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Take the trailer out on a back street or parking lot to do the adjustments. There are basically two dials, one will control the speed the trailer brakes are engaged and one will control the amount of braking force. When all is properly adjusted, you should not feel the trailer either pushing the tow vehicle or pulling back on the tow vehicle. I have found that every time I tow, I tweak the adjustment a little bit.

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In the event you buy an F150 for a tow vehicle, or any other Ford this may apply to, I am posting a link to a thread I started some time ago about a relay that ford includes but does not install which is necessary to charge your trailer battery while you are driving. I towed for over 30 years and never knew about this.

http://www.fortfiends.net/forum/topic/10187-f150-owners-and-maybe-others-who-cant-charge-their-trailer-batteries/

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I installed our Prodigy brake controller.  Our van didn't just "plug and play" like most of the new trucks do.  It wasn't difficult and the directions were pretty easy to follow.  I second what others have said.  Get the controller installed first before towing.  I can actually stop quicker towing than I can not towing because the trailer brakes are so good.  The Prodigy controller has worked flawlessly for 8 years now.  I would highly recommend it.  Good luck.

 

I find as our brakes heat up I have to dial back the controller a little or the brakes grab too harshly.  When they are cold they need a higher setting.

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I'm thinking brake controllers are like any other electronics, they are all made by 2 manufacturers under many different labels.

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Also, I actually have the brake controller we put in my QX56 right after we got it and just before we sold our trailer. I've never gotten around to listing it on craigslist. I'm sure I could talk my husband into selling it for a good deal. It was never used. We even have the box.

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Also, I actually have the brake controller we put in my QX56 right after we got it and just before we sold our trailer. I've never gotten around to listing it on craigslist. I'm sure I could talk my husband into selling it for a good deal. It was never used. We even have the box.

 

Thanks, but I would have no idea on how to install it....??   On the wiring, Infiniti said it should be wired, if that's the case...do I simple plug it in?  That makes me nervous as I don't want to do anything wrong.  I think we're probably better off having a professional install it.  

 

 

I'm thinking brake controllers are like any other electronics, they are all made by 2 manufacturers under many different labels.

 

Funny enough, the company I spoke with today said the exact same thing.

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Local company installs the : Draw Tite Activator 2 brake controller.

 

Is that a good one??

personally I would spend the extra money for a proportional brake controller like a Prodigy rather than a timed based controller like the on you mentioned. With the timed controller it basically waits a predetermined amount of time (milliseconds) after you have pressed the brake pedal in your tow vehicle and then will apply a set voltage (that you select) to the trailer brakes. You get the same braking power at 5MPH and 55MPH. Think of it like this....imagine you had to set the brakes on your tow vehicle to apply 80% braking every time you hit the brake pedal. You would get jerked to a stop at slow speeds, yet at higher speeds you might need more than 80%.

With the proportional controller it will sense how hard you are braking, usually with a pendulum inside the box and will apply the appropriate amount of voltage to your trailer brakes. It is a MUCH smoother stopping experience with the proportional controllers compared to the timed ones since it will vary how hard the trailer brakes come on.

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I will second e-trailer.  I have used them for several things in the past and they always ship fast and have great customer service. I sent in a general question to them via their website and they made a video response for me showing exactly what I was asking about. 

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What is the tow vehicle's make, mode, year and did it come with a factory tow kitl?

 

Most RV/ Uhaul dealership hack up the OEM wireing doing the wireing installs.  I have yet to have a "professional" install last laonger then 3 years before problems come up because they cut corners.

 

Usualy there is a plug and play or least damaging option that soem one has spent the time to research online.

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i did a quick look of your postings and it looks liek you have a 2006 Infiniti QX56.

 

Then you are in luck, there is plug and play kits available.

https://www.etrailer.com/bc-2006_Infiniti_QX56.htm

 

If your's didn't come with the factory tow pack, the factory wireing is still there any all you need is a few relays and the 7pin connector adaptor.

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=89

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What is the tow vehicle's make, mode, year and did it come with a factory tow kitl?

 

Most RV/ Uhaul dealership hack up the OEM wireing doing the wireing installs.  I have yet to have a "professional" install last laonger then 3 years before problems come up because they cut corners.

 

Usualy there is a plug and play or least damaging option that soem one has spent the time to research online.

 

Thanks.  Right now we are looking at a 2006 Infiniti QX56 (I say "right now" as the dealership is suppose to fix a few things before we actually buy It). That car is pre-wired, so we may actually try this on our own.

 

Next question for those of you fiends who like Prodigy.... Prodigy P2 or P3?  Which one is best?

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Well,Tekonsha 3 controlers that are very simular, they use the same sensors.

 

Primus IQ Electric brakes only, 1-3 axles, smallest of the 3, displays error codes

P2 Electric & electric over hydrolic brakes, 1-4 axles, displays error codes

P3 Electric & electric over hydrolic brakes, 1-4 axles,  largest of the 3, LED screen will display the errors,

 

The P2 and P3 cand be mounted any direction as long as it parallel to the direction fo travel.  The Primus IQ is up to 70deg from horizontal. The P2 and P3 have a swing lever for manual brakeing, while the IQ has a slide lever built into the front of the controler.

 

There are more diagnostics as you move up from the Primus IQ  to the P2 and then to the P3, but some of the additional diagnostics only apply to when you are using electric over hydrolic brakes.

 

I have the Primus IQ, since I will never tow a 4 axle, or electic over hydrolic, I went with the smallest. It is small enough to mount to the fuse pannel access door. The mounting depth and the swing lever on the bottom of the P2/3 would be in the way for my mounting options. The IQ is also $50 cheaper.

 

 

You might find negative reviews for the Primus, but that is for the original Primus, not the Primus IQ.

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