FloridaCamperRental 0 Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Just get some good old vinyl tape, it will be your best friend. It's clear. I hate to say but walmart has it in there RV section. Make sure you clean the vinyl real good with soap and water or vinyl cleaner. Get all the old duck tape off. Use a good sharp pair of scissors or a razor blade to cut the vinyl tape and apply it a few inches over the damaged area. Press it on real good and you should be all set. I doubt you will need to replace it but a real good source for replacing vinyl for a pop up is these guys. http://www.bearcreekcanvas.com/ Since your at it you may want to clean the outside vinyl and condition it also. How does the inside of the tent ends look? Are they pretty bright white or not? Let's see some pics of this thing...:) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Travisma 1,317 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Just get some good old vinyl tape, it will be your best friend. It's clear. I hate to say but walmart has it in there RV section. Make sure you clean the vinyl real good with soap and water or vinyl cleaner. Get all the old duck tape off. Use a good sharp pair of scissors or a razor blade to cut the vinyl tape and apply it a few inches over the damaged area. Press it on real good and you should be all set. I doubt you will need to replace it but a real good source for replacing vinyl for a pop up is these guys. http://www.bearcreekcanvas.com/ Since your at it you may want to clean the outside vinyl and condition it also. How does the inside of the tent ends look? Are they pretty bright white or not? Let's see some pics of this thing...:)Right now it is closed back up. It's supposed to rain so I threw a tarp over it. I want to get some good silicon caulk and do all of the roof joints. It looks like there may have been some leaks in the past.Overall the inside looks good. Some of the side pieces need to be wiped down again. What where do you find the vinyl conditioner? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblr....Rennie 224 Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Right now it is closed back up. It's supposed to rain so I threw a tarp over it. I want to get some good silicon caulk and do all of the roof joints. It looks like there may have been some leaks in the past. If you can I would use a dicor sealant that is what most of the rv companies use on the roof seams, that is all I use on the roof of ours plus Eternabond tape when needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Travisma 1,317 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 If you can I would use a dicor sealant that is what most of the rv companies use on the roof seams, that is all I use on the roof of ours plus Eternabond tape when needed. Is that the Dicor in the greenish tub, the edpm lap sealant? I see that it will work on aluminum material which is what my roof is. Also what is the vinyl cleaner/conditioner you mention. I'm hoping to get a few years out of this pup, so I want to get it in the best shape I can. I'm thinking of pulling the awning bracket off and resealing it instead of just caulking over what is there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arthuruscg 34 Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 For popup specific infor, check out PopUpPortal. They have even collected most of the manuals in the "Owner Manual" page/ section fo the site.http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?action=forum Everyone is correct, they are stabalizers not jacks. If you and your spotter are not good at backing up, get a ball leveler (28050). It will make for super quick Left/Right levleing and stop any forward/back rocking with out havign to backup on to boards. Here is my unpacking squence:Back in to siteUnlock all 4 top locks and unlock the doorGrab the GFCI outlet tester and check to make sure the outlets work and are correctly wiredPut stabalizers down but not touching the groundSnug Bal Leveler around the low side tireUnhitch from vehicle and level front/back with jack and L/R with BalCrank up the roofSnug up the stabalizersPull out the bunksFlip up counter and drop down the doorInstall the shepards poles and bungies on the bottom of the bunksIf wanted put up awning. It suck to have to repack/unpack when the outlets don't work. I have had 1 site that after I leveled, there was not enough space for the swing down stabalizers to lock into place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Travisma 1,317 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 For popup specific infor, check out PopUpPortal. They have even collected most of the manuals in the "Owner Manual" page/ section fo the site.http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?action=forum Everyone is correct, they are stabalizers not jacks. If you and your spotter are not good at backing up, get a ball leveler (28050). It will make for super quick Left/Right levleing and stop any forward/back rocking with out havign to backup on to boards. Here is my unpacking squence:Back in to siteUnlock all 4 top locks and unlock the doorGrab the GFCI outlet tester and check to make sure the outlets work and are correctly wiredPut stabalizers down but not touching the groundSnug Bal Leveler around the low side tireUnhitch from vehicle and level front/back with jack and L/R with BalCrank up the roofSnug up the stabalizersPull out the bunksFlip up counter and drop down the doorInstall the shepards poles and bungies on the bottom of the bunksIf wanted put up awning. It suck to have to repack/unpack when the outlets don't work. I have had 1 site that after I leveled, there was not enough space for the swing down stabalizers to lock into place.Good ideas there. I already printed out the manual. Now I'm trying to find the best sealant for the roof. I need to caulk some cracks in the current caulking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim5055 120 Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Found a site that had old coleman manuals. They say to unhitch the trailer then level using the hitch jack. Then raise the roof and after lower the stabilizers. That's when you slide out and set up the ends and door. Do not use the stabilizers to raise the trailer other than if you have to change a flat. Nothing about leveling side to side.those had to be really old manuals. Coleman didn't advise using the stabilizers for tire changing for many years. As the frames got thinner/smaller they had to make sure you didn't warp the frame so the rules slowly changed. Level side to side using the wheels (any of the systems noted above), chock the wheels, then level front to back using the tongue jack. At that point you can raise the roof. Now, some manufacturers had different recommendations. The link in my signature will take you to my web page which so far has been devoted to camping in pop ups. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Travisma 1,317 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 those had to be really old manuals. Coleman didn't advise using the stabilizers for tire changing for many years. As the frames got thinner/smaller they had to make sure you didn't warp the frame so the rules slowly changed. Level side to side using the wheels (any of the systems noted above), chock the wheels, then level front to back using the tongue jack. At that point you can raise the roof. Now, some manufacturers had different recommendations. The link in my signature will take you to my web page which so far has been devoted to camping in pop ups.They have manuals back to the 70's mine is an 86. I'll have to check out your link. Any hints on roof sealant? I've heard decor and siltek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblr....Rennie 224 Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I still stick with the dicor sealant and I clean before with mineral spirits, if you want to do a good job I would clean out all the old caulk and reseal with new not cover the old. But I do tend to overkill when I do a project. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Travisma 1,317 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I still stick with the dicor sealant and I clean before with mineral spirits, if you want to do a good job I would clean out all the old caulk and reseal with new not cover the old. But I do tend to overkill when I do a project.But that's why you don't have leaks! What type of dicor? The blue or the green tubes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblr....Rennie 224 Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 But that's why you don't have leaks! What type of dicor? The blue or the green tubes? Sorry but I do not remember the color and they are in the storage bin of the camper at the storage lot, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Travisma 1,317 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Sorry but I do not remember the color and they are in the storage bin of the camper at the storage lot,no problem. I'll check before purchasing, but one seemed like it was more for plastic/rubber and the other was good for metal. Our roof is the aluminum type. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DinDavie 37 Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 I second the motion for the Dicor caulk. It comes in tubes and goes on like the caulk from Home Depot. It is self leveling so that means you just squirt it on where you want it and it levels out before hardening. The Eternabond Tape is also also an excellent product but it is a perminent solution as it will not leak and not come off once it is in place. Both are available at your local RV supply store or on line through Camping World or RV Parts Nation. Good luck. I had nothing but good memories in my Pop Ups. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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