Winterizing and battery disconnect

[Tankpilot 9]

The chill is in the air and I am starting to do my research about winterizing the trailer. I have read many other forums and articles but I am not a member anywhere else, so I am going to ask the question here. How many here use compressed air vs. antifreeze? Or a combination of the two. I am pretty confident on the process of each (went out to blow air thru the system the other day just for fun). The trailer has the water heater bypass and a winterizing tube already installed.

The antifreeze method seems easier, the only thing make me hesitate for that is when the mild weeks come around and we want to head out in December, January, and February; I don't want to have to flush the system every time.

I am in north Mississippi so winters are not too harsh.

Also, I'll go ahead and ask here about installing a battery disconnect. I've ready good things about Blue Seas brand, specifically the 9003e and 6006m models. Who installs on + or -? I know about the trailer emergency brake on the +. I want to do this so I don't have to keep unlocking, opening, and disconnecting the - terminal.

Thanks for the help.

[DaveInTN 3,247]

In your climate I think I would just blow the lines out and pour some pink antifreeze down each drain to protect the traps.  

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

I installed my battery disconnect on the negative when I first got the trailer and had to store without power. Now the trailer stays plugged in all the time.

 

I only have a sink, so just run some pink stuff through it, then flush very well with plenty of water and some vodka in the spring

[Grumpy and Grandma 740]

In your climate I think I would just blow the lines out and pour some pink antifreeze down each drain to protect the traps.

X2 and the disconnect should be on the + side. The break away (brake switch wire) should be a seperate wire so you can leave it connected and connect the trailer power wire to the switch.

[DaveInTN 3,247]

I installed my battery disconnect on the negative when I first got the trailer and had to store without power. Now the trailer stays plugged in all the time.

 

I only have a sink, so just run some pink stuff through it, then flush very well with plenty of water and some vodka in the spring

 

I recommend flushing the RV with water, and flush yourself with vodka.  

[Tankpilot 9]

X2 and the disconnect should be on the + side. The break away (brake switch wire) should be a seperate wire so you can leave it connected and connect the trailer power wire to the switch.

This is what I am leaning towards, compressed air. The issue is not so much the winterizing process, it is more of "de-winterizing" when we want to head out in the winter.

My + on the battery has two wires coming off of it, I think one is red one is green. I am sure one goes directly to the break away switch, the other powering the trailer, just gotta go look at it.

[McMonsters..........Kelly 48]

I live in the coastal NC area and we have mild winters as well.  I'm leaning towards the air compressor and pink goo in the traps for us.  I'm looking at getting away as much as possible during the winter months and don't want the hassle of flushing everything so often.

[DaveInTN 3,247]

This is what I am leaning towards, compressed air. The issue is not so much the winterizing process, it is more of "de-winterizing" when we want to head out in the winter.

My + on the battery has two wires coming off of it, I think one is red one is green. I am sure one goes directly to the break away switch, the other powering the trailer, just gotta go look at it.

 

If your RV has a low point drain in the water system and you do end up pumping antifreeze into it, you can always put a bucket under the drain and collect the antifreeze for re-use.  Then after your weekend out, just re-pump the same pink stuff into the system again.  I'd only do that if it turns out to be a very cold winter and you want peace of mind.  

[h2odivers...Ray 952]

I don't have a RV but I have to winterize my FILs houseboat which has some of the same plumbing systems.

You have two systems to winterize. Supply and disposal.

I drain all supply lines, shore and holding tanks, and use compressed air to make sure all water is out of the system.

I then drain the black water tank, most boats pump out grey water directly into the lake, and put the pink stuff in the black water tanks and all "p" traps.

The batteries don't have a disconnect switch and I'm not sure why you would need one. (Maybe some one can explain this to me.) Because the boat has a three bank maintainer. It keeps the batteries charged all winter long.

The best way to ruin a battery is to let it go dead and then freeze. I pull the batteries out of my gas golf cart, riding mower, motorcycle, and put them on maintainers and in the spring I put them back in. Fully charged and ready to go.

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

The reason most campers need a disconnect switch is that even when nothing is turned on the camper, there are parasitic drains on the battery. For example, on my camper, the drain is the ceiling fan, and the propane detector.  If you store it in a place without power, then your battery will be repeatedly drained to empty which is not good for it.  For some campers, it is easy to simply disconnect the negative lead and you are fine. In the case of my camper, the battery is under a closet inside a battery box, so actually getting to the battery is not a simple procedure, so I installed a disconnect switch.

 

Now mine stays plugged in all the time, so no need.

[ftwildernessguy 778]

I don't do the air blow out anymore. Seemed like an extra step to me, since I pump the pink stuff thru anyway. I pull the battery completely for the winter, bring it inside and give it a good charge. I use a battery disconnect during the season to prevent a dead battery while stored between trips. Wally World sells an inexpensive (ie. cheap) one that works just fine.

[tim5055 120]

In your climate I think I would just blow the lines out and pour some pink antifreeze down each drain to protect the traps.  

X3 -

 

You said you have a bypass, but, make sure you drain the water heater.  Using the compressed air method you can bypass the heater and pull the anode rod/drain plug to drain the water. 

[dblr....Rennie 224]

I am in the northeast area and I only use the compressed air and antifreeze down the traps, been doing it this way for over 30 years and never had a problem. Always removed the battery during the winter but now store the camper on site so it's always plugged in.

[wak648...Bill 94]

I do the combination method.  I blow the lines out after the trips towards the end of the season with the hopes of still getting in one more trip.  Where I live we start to get cold enough to freeze at night towards the end of Sept/Begining of Oct.  Then when I am sure the season is over (yard is buried in snow and to difficult to get it out) I pump the pink stuff through the drains.

 

 

I am in the northeast area and I only use the compressed air and antifreeze down the traps, been doing it this way for over 30 years and never had a problem. Always removed the battery during the winter but now store the camper on site so it's always plugged in.

 

Pfft low 30's overnight in the winter for you is usually our high temps.

[MLM5.. aka Judy 97]

I really need somebody to simplify this for me.. can I avoid all this if I leave it plugged in all winter?  I'm so confused..

 

is there a winterizing RV's for dummies book somewhere? :panic:

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

If you leave it plugged in, then your battery is fine, BUT, you will need to drain all the water and run the pink stuff through the water system.  You don't want your pipes in the camper to freeze.

[MLM5.. aka Judy 97]

If you leave it plugged in, then your battery is fine, BUT, you will need to drain all the water and run the pink stuff through the water system.  You don't want your pipes in the camper to freeze.

 

 

stupid girl question.. other than draining the tanks til they say they are empty.. how do you get all the water out?  Is that what they are using the compressed air for? 

 

Is leaving it pulled in all winter going to kill my electric bill?  :rofl2:

[mouseketab.....Carol 1,261]

I'd have to look at your trailer, but I have just the sink, and I just put some of antifreeze in my fresh water tank, and run the water till it runs pink in the sink.  It's mostly your incoming lines and your water pump/hot water heater that you don't want to freeze

[DaveInTN 3,247]

stupid girl question.. other than draining the tanks til they say they are empty.. how do you get all the water out?  Is that what they are using the compressed air for? 

 

Is leaving it pulled in all winter going to kill my electric bill?  :rofl2:

 

Judy, you need to at least do the following:

 

1.  Drain your black and grey holding tanks.  If some water remains in them, it is probably ok as there is room for it to expand if it freezes.  But at least drain the smelly stuff as best as possible. 

 

2.  Your water heater most likely has a valve behind it that bypasses it from the rest of the water supply lines.  Not sure where you access the back of your water heater, but it's usually under a bed, behind an access panel somewhere, or maybe in a basement storage compartment.  Once you find the bypass valve, turn it.  This isolates the water heater so that anything moving through your water lines (water, antifreeze, air) won't fill up the water heater tank. 

 

3.  Drain the water heater. 

 

4.  Then, you want to blow all the water that sits in your water lines out so it doesn't freeze and crack the water lines.  Do you have an air compressor?  If so...you have a couple options.  The cheapest is to pick up one of these doohickeys from Walmart. 

 

 

You screw it into the water intake for your city water hookup, and take your air chuck and press it up against the nipple.  No jokes, please.  :)  You need two people for this....one to hold the air chuck against the doohickey while the 2nd opens the faucets one at a time.  When a faucet is opened, water should come spraying out followed by compressed air.  Do this to all faucets in your unit.  Don't forget outside showers.  Both hot and cold, too.  Also, make sure you don't have the air pressure so high it blows out a faucet o-ring or anything.  Maybe 40 psi should be sufficient? 

 

5.  After you are sure all water has been blown from all lines, get some pink RV antifreeze (also sold at Walmart) and pour a cup or so down each drain.  This protects the traps from freezing, as they retain water to keep sewer smells from coming up from your holding tanks. 

 

6.  I also pour a little into the toilet to protect the rubber seal from freezing and/or drying out. 

 

7.  Then protect your battery from draining down.  Either just disconnect or remove completely and store inside with a trickle charge on it.  I actually have stored mine over the winter without a charger hooked up and  been fine. 

 

It sounds like a lot, but it really shouldn't take too long, especially after you've done it once or twice.   In the spring, don't forget to turn the water heater bypass back the other way....or you can even do this after you are done winterizing.  You DO NOT want to forget and turn on the water heater in the spring thinking it is full of water, as it will burn out the element. 

[MLM5.. aka Judy 97]

Judy, you need to at least do the following:

 

1.  Drain your black and grey holding tanks.  If some water remains in them, it is probably ok as there is room for it to expand if it freezes.  But at least drain the smelly stuff as best as possible. 

 

2.  Your water heater most likely has a valve behind it that bypasses it from the rest of the water supply lines.  Not sure where you access the back of your water heater, but it's usually under a bed, behind an access panel somewhere, or maybe in a basement storage compartment.  Once you find the bypass valve, turn it.  This isolates the water heater so that anything moving through your water lines (water, antifreeze, air) won't fill up the water heater tank. 

 

3.  Drain the water heater. 

 

4.  Then, you want to blow all the water that sits in your water lines out so it doesn't freeze and crack the water lines.  Do you have an air compressor?  If so...you have a couple options.  The cheapest is to pick up one of these doohickeys from Walmart. 

 

 

You screw it into the water intake for your city water hookup, and take your air chuck and press it up against the nipple.  No jokes, please.  :)  You need two people for this....one to hold the air chuck against the doohickey while the 2nd opens the faucets one at a time.  When a faucet is opened, water should come spraying out followed by compressed air.  Do this to all faucets in your unit.  Don't forget outside showers.  Both hot and cold, too.  Also, make sure you don't have the air pressure so high it blows out a faucet o-ring or anything.  Maybe 40 psi should be sufficient? 

 

5.  After you are sure all water has been blown from all lines, get some pink RV antifreeze (also sold at Walmart) and pour a cup or so down each drain.  This protects the traps from freezing, as they retain water to keep sewer smells from coming up from your holding tanks. 

 

6.  I also pour a little into the toilet to protect the rubber seal from freezing and/or drying out. 

 

7.  Then protect your battery from draining down.  Either just disconnect or remove completely and store inside with a trickle charge on it.  I actually have stored mine over the winter without a charger hooked up and  been fine. 

 

It sounds like a lot, but it really shouldn't take too long, especially after you've done it once or twice.   In the spring, don't forget to turn the water heater bypass back the other way....or you can even do this after you are done winterizing.  You DO NOT want to forget and turn on the water heater in the spring thinking it is full of water, as it will burn out the element. 

Dave I just printed this out, thank you so much!!!

[MLM5.. aka Judy 97]

You said nipple.. :rofl2:

[DaveInTN 3,247]

You said nipple.. :rofl2:

 

Yes, and if I had known as a kid that doohickeys had nipples, I would have gladly forked over my lunch money for a pair of them. 

[Travisma 1,317]

Seems like owning a camper in FL is a lot less work! :wave1:

 

If you have a Harbor Freight anywhere nearby, they have 12 V trickle (not tickle) chargers pretty cheap normally, and if you catch a sale they are only about $5.

 

But at least your cold weather will freeze out any leftover bugs.

[Katman1356...Jason 1,140]

 

Pfft low 30's overnight in the winter for you is usually our high temps.

 

In the winter I pray for low 30's. That's almost tshirt weather

[CCIntrigue...aka Gwen 547]

We do both methods ... compressed air and the pink stuff.  Even after returning home from the fort (over 600 miles) with our drain valves open, we still don't get all the water out.  Dolly continues to drain for weeks and weeks without the compressed air.

 

We do winterize the icemaker and washer/dryer.  However, we don't drain our water heater.  We don't live in a climate cold enough to freeze 10 gallons of water.  We bypass it during winterizing.